 |
|
|
March 2008 Special Gardening Section
Here is a package of five gardening articles
sure to get you fired up for spring
Ground rules for great gardens
by Kris Wetherbee
A lackluster landscape does little more than serve as an uninspiring transition to the indoors. But when you infuse the same landscape with inviting character, the view suddenly transforms to one that’s endlessly alluring.
That character might be in the form of new plants sporting seasonal interest or undulating paths that lead to unexpected pleasures. Perhaps your yard begs for an ever-changing border of color and texture. Even something as simple as a rose-covered arbor can lend sensual surprise from one area to the next.
A well-designed garden is no mere transition but rather an engaging way to enjoy outdoor living at its best.
Of course, like any remodel or home-improvement project, renovating your yard requires a thoughtful plan and a measure of inspiration. However, the real secret to a great garden lies in the essential elements of garden design. So sit down, relax and read on for planning and design strategies that will transform your landscape from boring to sensational.
Scrutinize your space
In order to make your yard more inviting, you need to determine how you and your family will be using the space.
Do you crave fresh herbs for your kitchen? Spice things up by selecting an area that’s not only easily accessible but also aesthetically pleasing, such as a courtyard container garden or perhaps an herb garden that can be viewed from your kitchen window.
Entertaining can be more enticing if you expand your perspective beyond the deck or patio, such as a fragrant pathway leading to a dining room terrace with a jasmine-covered pergola as the roof. Or, envision a secluded spot to relax or read with a comfy chair in a shaded alcove surrounded by flowers.
When evaluating your yard, also consider site basics such as soil, sun and shade patterns, direction of prevailing winds, and topography of the land, including slopes and grades as well as views you wish to enhance or screen out.
For example, poor soil conditions are easily solved with raised beds filled with loamy garden soil that’s been brought in. A row of evergreen shrubs or a vine-covered fence can also serve as a blockade against extreme winds or unsightly views.
Planning your garden design
Every garden has its positive features and unsightly drawbacks, a few more obvious than others. Some may be minor imperfections that can easily be altered by changing a few plants or adding a new coat of paint to your favorite chair.
Keep the plantings and hardscapes that will contribute to your overall design, enhance those that can be altered, and eliminate any elements that are negative. Sometimes you can even turn a potential problem into an pleasurable asset. If a giant oak tree casts too much shade, use its canopy to create a welcoming woodland retreat.
Once you’ve determined which plants and garden elements work and those that don’t, you can begin to map out any additional beds, borders, islands or paths you wish to put in. If you’re not sure where to begin, start with a destination focal point that draws you inside — such as a water feature, plant grouping or cozy sitting area — then include a meandering path that leads to your destination. Walkways can also lead from one destination to the next, such as in a series of outdoor rooms, each with its own characteristics and uses.
Consider individual appeal
Every plant and every garden element contributes a dimensional aspect to your overall design through its color, texture, form and scale.
Color can be used to inspire a certain mood, change visual perspectives, or call attention to a treasured object. Shades of blue, gray and lavender evoke tranquility while red, orange, and yellow are energizing. Use the same warm tones to make a large expanse of space seem more welcoming, or use cool colors at the back of the border to visually expand a small garden.
Texture — whether in the velvety leaves of lamb’s ear or the intricate pattern of bark — provides tactile interest along with subtle distinctions of light and shade. A plant’s form (upright, columnar, spreading, weeping, etc.) lends substance and interest that ultimately give your garden structure. And scale, which is the size of an object, gives visual perspective in relation to the surrounding environment.
Engage in group efforts
While color, texture, form, and scale serve as the pieces of the puzzle, design principles — unity and rhythm, variety and effect, balance and transition — are what connect their different personalities into a pleasing picture.
Unity and rhythm bring harmony and order to the landscape through consistent style. This can be achieved through a color theme, design style, vegetative types, a continuing thread of mass plantings, or garden structures and materials that tie in with your home’s architectural details and design aspects.
A careful balance of variety and effect adds visual excitement and brings the garden to life. One long border of daisies can be very monotonous, yet engages your interest when placed in separate groupings with other plants. Another way to add variety is to include plants that provide seasonal beauty throughout the year.
A columnar cypress certainly adds architectural appeal, but it can look boring by itself since it remains green all year. In contrast, a redbud (Cercis spp.) paints the scene with a profusion of rosy pink blossoms in early spring followed by a summer display of newly formed seed pods and rich green leaves that turn light yellow or red for autumnal attraction. Then a framework of bare branches reveal reddish brown seed pods for winter fascination.
Create effect with a focal point that captures your attention and invites you to come in, such as an interesting sculpture or the unexpected serenity of a fountain. Garden structures, archways, or a prominent bed can also add effectual emphasis to an area.
Balance — whether symmetrical or asymmetrical — conveys visual stability while transition in beds and borders and from one garden area to the next provides visual flow.
Add your own signature
Just as accessories can influence the way your home looks and feels, they can also reflect your individual style outdoors. Any decorative object can be used to add that personal touch — from statuary, decorative pots and outdoor furniture, to a whimsical garden shed, scarecrow, or rustic wheelbarrow filled with catmint and ornamental grasses.
Use your creative sense to combine garden art with plants, arrange a medley of colorful bowling balls to brighten up a shady area, or tuck in a birdhouse collection or gargoyle for an element of surprise.
As with any successful design, it’s important to let form follow function. An arch or pergola lend structure and architectural interest to the landscape, but more importantly they provide support for your favorite clematis or climbing roses. And, while a birdbath and birdhouse add character, they also provide necessities for our feathered friends. It’s worth repeating — form follows function. Top it off with your signature style and the end result will be a beautiful and comfortable garden that’s uniquely yours.
Kris Wetherbee is a freelance writer from Oakland, Ore. This package of stories was prepared for the statewide electric cooperative publications.
Early birds
Eager to get in the garden? So are these plants
With the burgeoning season of warm sunshine and budding flowers around the corner, there’s no better time to cultivate a great summer garden than now.
A wide variety of bareroot trees and shrubs as well as a cold-tolerant perennials, annuals and ornamental grasses are available at nurseries and garden centers that are perfect for early spring planting. Take a peek at the seed rack and you’ll also discover a colorful class of hardy annuals that can be sown without delay, plus, many more offerings that can be planted after the danger of frost has passed will be making their appearance in the weeks to come.
Knowing which plants make good candidates for early spring planting is a major step to getting a jump on the season. But making sure that your new plant purchases have been properly “hardened off” — a term used to describe plants that have been gradually exposed to outdoor conditions — can make the difference between a plant that flourishes or one that goes into distress.
Settling in
Plants you buy at garden centers and nurseries are typically greenhouse grown and have not been properly acclimated to the outdoor environment, especially plants you buy in early spring. As such, it’s best to acclimate new purchases to the outdoors once you bring them home.
Start by bringing the plant outside for a few hours the first day, then leave it outside for increasingly longer periods for about a week, making sure that it spends each night in a protected location such as a garage, sheltered patio, or even indoors.
Once plants are ready to go into the ground, help them settle in to their new garden space by loosening the root ball at planting time. That way roots can easily spread out into the surrounding soil and get a firm foothold so the plant above ground can flourish. You can further help plants settle in by transplanting on a cool or cloudy day, or plant early in the morning or evening.
Prepare the planting hole by working in a few handfuls of organic matter, such as compost, decomposed leaves or well-aged manure. Next, dig a hole a little wider than the size of the root ball. Fill the hole with additional soil and firm the plant into place.
Be sure to water new plantings thoroughly to help settle the soil around the roots. It’s also important to provide consistent and adequate moisture the first growing season, even for plants that are tolerant to drought. (Water deeply and thoroughly to promote a deeper root system.) Once the weather warms, apply a 1- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch — such as compost, shredded leaves, or bark dust — to help keep down weeds and conserve moisture.
Great picks
Most plants can go in the ground once the threat of a killing frost has passed, though bareroot trees and shrubs are best transplanted in late winter while they are still dormant.
As a general rule, if it’s available at your local nursery or garden center it’s probably safe to plant. For some great picks for early spring planting, check out these six hardy favorites.
Bee Balm (Monarda didyma): Long-blooming summer flowers ranging in color from red to mahogany and pink to lavender grow atop upright stems from 2 to 4 feet tall. Best grown in full sun to light shade and moist, well-drained soil.
Hardy Geranium (Geranium spp.): Also known as cranesbill, this group of summer-blooming perennials are a standard in European gardens. This perpetual bloomer appreciates moist, well-drained soil in a sunny location with afternoon shade where summers are hot.
Hollyhock (Alcea rosea): Cottage garden favorite with beautiful single, semidouble, or double flowers in summer in a wide range of colors. This self-sowing, short-lived perennial thrives in sunny to partially shady locations and moist, rich and well-drained soil.
Moss Phlox (Phlox subulata): Late spring to early summer blooming perennial growing to 6 inches tall, with brilliant blooms that cover the ground. Grows best in full sun and average but well-drained soil with moderate moisture.
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea): Daisy-like flowers appearing in summer in shades of pink to lavender and rose, followed by attractive autumn seedheads enjoyed by many birds. Somewhat drought-tolerant once established. Grows best in full sun to light shade and well-drained, humus rich soil.
Rose (Rosa spp.): This classic flowering shrub — available as bareroot plants in early spring, or later, in containers — comes in a wide range of sizes, forms, and bloom color. Most roses grow best in a sunny to lightly shaded location with good air circulation and moderately fertile and moist, but well-drained soil. — Kris Wetherbee
… But avoid working wet soil
by B. Rosie Lerner, Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist
Many gardeners this time of year get that itch to get out the tiller and work up their garden soil. But it’s really best for your garden’s long-term health to resist the urge to work the soil if it is still wet with snow melt and rain. Whether you use a tiller, plow or just a garden spade, working wet soil can badly compact soil, and the negative effects will last for many years.
Working wet soil will pack soil particles tightly, leaving less room for water and air to penetrate. Compacted soil also makes it more difficult for plant roots and gardening equipment to move through the soil. The compression forms tight clumps of soil that become hard as rocks upon drying and are difficult to break up. In addition to making it difficult for plants to grow, compacted soils also tend to drain more slowly, in turn delaying the ability to work the soil after the next rainfall.
Once compacted, it will take many years to rebuild a healthy soil structure, requiring annual applications of organic matter, such composted plant and animal wastes or perhaps growing a green manure crop, such as annual rye or winter wheat.
The best course of action is to prevent compaction in the first place. To determine whether your garden’s soil is dry enough to work, dig a trowel full of soil and squeeze it in your hand. Soil that crumbles through your fingers when squeezed is ready to garden. If, however, the soil forms a muddy ball, give the soil another few days to dry, and sample again later.
In the meantime, you can soothe that gardening itch by sketching garden plans, browsing online and mail-order catalogs, and making a shopping list for your local garden center. You’ll be ready for action when the soil does dry enough to work.
Water-thrifty planting
A colorful summer garden needn’t require loads of water
Rain may be ample in spring. But once summer rolls around, sometimes all we get is rolling thunder and we’re left high and dry when our plants need water the most.
Water is essential to keeping plants healthy and happy. But keeping a garden irrigated can take a lot of work — and water.
That’s why using a mix of water-thrifty plants along with a few water-wise gardening tips is a great way to keep your garden surviving and thriving without spending precious time and money on watering.
Sizing up plants
A plant’s drought tolerance varies depending on your soil, climate and location. As such, plants suited to your personal growing conditions will always give a better show with less care. For example, hollyhocks will do just fine without any supplemental water when grown in areas of the country that receive some summer rain. However, in our climate these statuesque blooms will be left with a powerful thirst without some H2O.
Growing conditions can also vary within your own garden. South and west exposures tend to dry out more quickly than areas facing north or east. As such, it’s important to position plants in areas where they can best survive the occasional drought. And grouping plants according to their water needs makes for more efficient watering.
Choose plants with a stronger tolerance to drought for these hotter south and west zones. Artemisia, cotoneaster, echinacea, rudbeckia, sedums and most salvias are good selections. A few shade-tolerant plants that can handle the occasional drought include hostas, bear’s breech (Acanthus spp.), hardy geraniums, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica) and bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi).
Maximize moisture
Healthy plants can get by on less water than plants that are stressed. Timely weeding and feeding keep plants healthy. But adding organic mulch will always enhance the drought-tolerance of most any plant.
Start by mixing a 3- to 6-inch layer of organic matter, such as compost, into the soil before you plant. Doing this increases the water-retaining capacity of the soil and creates an environment that encourages roots to grow deeper, which makes it easier for plants to find and absorb moisture during times of drought.
Adding organic mulch like compost, shredded leaves, herbicide-free grass clippings or aged sawdust to the surface is a good idea, as well. This will conserve water by preventing weeds (which waste water and nutrients), and keeping soil temperatures cooler and moisture levels more consistent while also reducing surface evaporation.
Water wisely
No plant can survive without water. Even water-thrifty plants need consistent water the first year or two before they become established in the garden. After that, the key is to water deeply and infrequently, which will promote a deeper and more extensive root system.
The best time to water is in the cool of the early morning. That way more water seeps into the soil and less is lost through evaporation. The right type of irrigation system can also do wonders to minimize moisture loss and excess runoff by distributing lower volumes of water over longer periods of time. Drip irrigation is best for spot watering around perennials, shrubs and other permanent plantings. Low-volume sprayers or bubblers are ideal for trees and ground covers. Weave soaker hoses through annual and perennial beds and borders. Of course, there is always hand watering, which can be a highly efficient way to water.
By growing the right water-thrifty plants and utilizing strategies that help maximize moisture, you can keep your landscape lush during times of drought and beyond. What’s more, using the least amount of water to produce a downpour of color also gives you more time to sit back and soak it all in. — Kris Wetherbee
Getting a grip on weeds
Prevention measures, physical controls, and alternative herbicides
provide a winning strategy in the ongoing battle with weeds
Let’s face it. Weeds are a continual presence whether they pop up in lawns, ornamental plantings, beds and borders, vegetable patches, or in the cracks between stone paths and brick walkways. Weeds can disrupt the aesthetics of your overall landscape design and they vie with cultivated plants for available water, nutrients, sunlight, and space. And many compete with a vengeance. This can leave the population of desirable plants weakened, less productive, and more susceptible to disease.
The appearance of a few random weeds in the landscape is tolerable; after all, who needs perfection? And a few weeds may actually benefit your garden—some provide nectar and pollen and serve as alternate hosts for beneficial insects that help keep populations of plant-consuming insects in check. But when weeds threaten a hostile takeover of your garden, it’s time to consider your options for cracking down on the truly aggressive invaders.
Although there are circumstances where chemical herbicides may be necessary, they should always be viewed as a last resort. In addition to adding considerable cost to gardening, they can be counter-productive to a comprehensive weed control plan.
William Quarles, executive director of the Bio-Integral Resource Center (BIRC) and managing editor of Common Sense Pest Control Quarterly, says that chemical herbicides can create more problems when, “Either weeds become resistant or that continued use changes the weed spectrum so that susceptible annual weeds are killed, and more difficult perennial weeds invade the area.” As a result, weeds may actually gain ground in your garden.
Fortunately, there are many preventive measures and ecologically safe procedures that will help keep problem weeds under control. Using several of these methods in combination yields the best results. You rarely need an onslaught of toxic chemicals to make weeds retreat if you have sound defense and a well-conceived attack plan.
The nature of weeds
In down-to-earth terms, a weed is simply any plant that is unwelcome, unattractive, or out of place. But not all weeds are equal. Perhaps it’s time to distinguish between the occasional nuisance and a truly troublesome weed.
Any plant should be considered a wicked weed when it grows aggressively, reproduces with abandon, and easily displaces more desirable plants. Some, like bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis), are more invasive than others—and extremely difficult to eradicate. Self-sowers like purslane (Portulaca oleracea) are incredibly prolific, dispensing as many as 50,000 seeds in a single season. And some weeds, like those of ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia) can remain viable in the soil for decades.
Weeds can invade yards by many means. Their seeds are spread by wind, water, or animals. Weed seeds, roots, and seedlings can gain free entry via purchased plants, manures, soil, and the soil amendments that we bring into our gardens. No matter how they get there, the first step in developing a control strategy is to determine how they propagate.
Annual weeds like redroot pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus), ragweed, and crabgrass (Digitaria spp.) are prolific seed producers. Crabgrass alone can set as many as 150,000 seeds in one year. It also spreads by stolons, creeping horizontal stems that form roots and new plants along their length. But annual weeds survive winter only as seed; prevent seed formation, and you seriously reduce next year’s re-infestation. And most annual weeds are shallow-rooted so they are fairly easy to control by cultivation or hand pulling.
In addition to setting seeds, many perennial weeds multiply in other ways, complicating control measures. Some proliferate by bulbs, underground stems called rhizomes, or by stolons. Many die back to the ground in winter, but their roots persist from year to year so that, left unchecked, perennial weeds can become firmly established and difficult to eradicate.
An ounce of prevention
Whether weeds spread by seed or invade beds and borders via rampant rhizomes, runners, or roots, the best way to control them is to prevent them from ever gaining ground. Garden design and growing techniques aimed at tipping the balance in favor of desired plants are at the forefront of prevention.
Weeds are opportunistic and fierce competitors. Because many adapt readily to less-than-ideal conditions, soil compaction, erratic watering, and improper cultivation favor weed development. But soil rich in organic matter and nutrients and a consistent water supply will foster strong, healthy garden plants that are capable of competing with invasive weeds. The key is to nurture the desired plants, not the weeds.
For example, overhead watering and sprinkler systems supply both weeds and plants with water. In contrast, drip irrigation and soaker hoses are much more restrictive in the area they cover, delivering moisture right to the root zones of targeted garden plants rather than nearby weeds.
Improper cultivation can inadvertently multiply weeds. Rototilling brings up buried seeds to the top 1- to 2-inches of soil where most weed seeds germinate, and it also chops roots, rhizomes, and stolons into tiny pieces that can generate new plants.
You can also design weeds out of your landscape by growing plants close together. Close spacing creates a dense canopy of leaves that act as a living mulch, shading the soil from sunlight so weed seeds are less likely to germinate. Starting your garden with transplants rather than sowing seeds is another useful strategy because the leafy shade develops more quickly.
When you’re waiting for newly planted perennials to fill in, cover up the empty spaces with fast-growing annuals, like sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima), garden verbena (Verbena x hybrida), or petunias. Maintaining a mow strip—a paved, brick, or stone surface—between lawns and beds and under fences helps prevent weed intrusion and reduces maintenance.
Organic mulches are an effective way to prevent weeds from popping up. A 4-inch-thick layer of mulch will blanket the soil so seeds have difficulty germinating, and the few seeds that do manage to surface are easily pulled. Good sources include lawn clippings, shredded leaves, bark mulch, aged sawdust, compost, nut or seed hulls, or even layers of newspaper or old carpeting. One relatively new concept that I’ve been using for years in my own garden is sheep’s wool. It makes an ideal mulch; it’s easy to spread and is quite dense, yet allows air, water, and nutrients to pass through to plant roots. Wool is also slow to decompose, but when it does, it serves as a great source of nitrogen and trace minerals.
Perennial weeds often push up through organic mulches, although sheep’s wool is a good deterrent for most perennial weeds, especially grasses. Covering the ground first with a synthetic barrier followed by a thin 1- to 2-inch layer of mulch helps keep many perennial weeds under control. Thick plastic sheeting and landscape fabrics—available as spunbound, woven or non-woven materials—provide a great physical barrier to weeds. Landscape fabrics usually last longer than plastic, plus they still allow water, air, and nutrients to penetrate.
Soil solarization is a great technique for weed control when breaking new ground, establishing new beds, or where annual vegetables and flowers are exclusively grown. The soil is cultivated to bring weed seeds to the point of germinating, then cooked so seeds die as they sprout. This is accomplished by rototilling (which brings weed seeds to the surface), watering thoroughly, then covering the area with a 3- to 6-millimeter clear plastic sheeting that has been secured around the edges. It takes four to six weeks to do a thorough job.
Corn gluten meal (CGM) is a protein-based, natural product that prevent root formation in germinating seeds. As a non-toxic pre-emergent herbicide, it is marketed under several names such as Safe ‘N SimpleÔ, WOWÔ, and WeedzStopÔ. “It is more effective as a pre-emergent when incorporated into soil than when used as a top dressing,” says Quarles. It is non-selective so don’t use it on a newly seeded lawn.
Timing can be tricky since CGM is only effective when applied before weed seeds germinate. “The idea is to apply it, water it in a few weeks before annual weeds germinate, then let the area dry out so that the sprouting seeds will die due to lack of a root system,” explains Quarles. Applications vary somewhat among the CGM products, so follow the instructions on the label for best results.
A pound of cure
When weed prevention has slipped through the cracks, or too many weeds have grown through the cracks, it’s time to take action. Hand weeding is always easier and more productive when the ground is moist, and cultivating or surface hoeing is best when the ground is somewhat dry so any seedlings left on top of the soil are less likely to re-root.
Hoeing effectively dispatches young annual weeds and tiny, newly germinated seedlings. Some hoes slice just below the surface while other hoes—commonly called stirrup or scuffle hoes—are scraped across the surface. Regardless of type, keep the blade sharpened for efficient use. Annual weeds with strong root systems will likely require repeated hoeing.
For weeds with persistent roots, the entire plant should be removed so a shovel or mechanical weeder are the tools of choice. Mechanical weeders come equipped with long handles that allow you to stand while pulling out weeds. The sharp tines or prongs grip the weed, extracting the plant and its roots—at least, most of the roots—as you pull it out of the ground. A shovel or spading fork work best for perennials that spread, such as bindweed or Canada thistle. Just be careful to get as much of the roots and runners as possible.
Pulling weeds by hand —preferably, a gloved hand—is another option. Use a trowel, hand fork, or a weed-pulling tool with a forked end to dig under the roots, especially for perennials. Dispose of weeds in a compost pile—vegetative parts of many perennials can re-sprout if left on the soil surface. Unless your compost is very hot, dispose of weeds that have gone to seed elsewhere.
Speaking of heat, how about putting weeds under fire? Weed flaming works by heating plant cells so they rupture, causing the plant to die within a few hours, although they may not actually look dead for a couple of days. The heat is nonselective, with young plants being most susceptible to this scorching technique. A single two- to three-second pass with the flamer usually kills broadleaf annuals; perennial weeds may require repeated treatments. Flamers are an excellent tool for weeding along fences, in cracks between pavers, in lawns, and around trees and shrubs. Use with great care, or you’ll scorch the fence and trees and shrubs, and never use a flamer in a bed covered with organic mulch—for obvious reasons!
Weeds can also be killed with water—boiling water, that is. Applied with a tea kettle to invading vegetation that crops up between brick and pavers, it is both effective and inexpensive.
If you’d rather reach for an herbicide to wipe out your weeds, there are several non-toxic choices. These are non-selective, killing by contact any plants on which they are sprayed. They do not have a residual effect.
Soap-based herbicides are combinations of fatty acids and salts; they are best applied when temperatures are above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Vinegar (five percent acetic acid) will control many weeds and is great for use between pavers and bricks. Quarles suggests that “best effects are seen when weeds are small, and it is applied in conditions where sunlight and heat are available to desiccate the weeds.”
Products with a higher concentration of acetic acid, such as Burnout, have proven even more effective. “Higher concentrations of acetic acid can burn skin and eyes and can be a hazard if not handled properly,” warns Quarles.
Other alternative herbicides include clove oil (eugenol), cinnamon oil, and citric acid, often in combination with acetic acid. Most control both annual and perennial weeds, though best results are obtained when spraying weeds while young and actively growing, and repeated applications may be necessary.
You’ll never win the war against weeds. However, with a good offense and a back-up defense plan in hand, you’ll be well equipped to win the important battles and then simply manage the rest.
Common weeding mistakes
• Leaving bare soil uncovered. Whenever there is bare soil coupled with moderate soil temperatures, you’ve got the makings for an invasion.
• Using raw animal manure or hay. Hay and most animals manures contain weed seeds and should be thoroughly composted in a hot pile (160 degrees) before use. Horse manure is best avoided altogether.
• Using raw animal manure or hay. Hay and most animal manures contain weed seeds and should be thoroughly composted in a hot pile (160 degrees) before use. Horse manure is best avoided altogether.
• Applying fertilizer improperly. When you fertilize the entire bed rather than the specific plant, you also feed neighboring weeds.
• Pulling weeds and leaving them on the soil. Flowering annual weeds like purslane can continue to develop and dispense their seeds. Perennial weeds can easily reroot or grow new plants from pieces of root that break apart.
• Delaying action. Don’t let annual weeds go to seed or allow perennial weeds to become established before dealing with them. — Kris Wetherbee
Written By: eceditor
Date Posted: 3/4/2008
Number of Views: 320
Return
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|